Eco Fashion World

It started with Katherine Hamnett in 1983, now Alice Temperley, Giles Deacon and Zandra Rhodes are on board. Put it down to the recent swing in consumer spending trends towards products that promote social and environmental responsibility, but suddenly T-shirts with something to say are everywhere. It seems we increasingly want clothing that reflects our ethics and T-shirts, perhaps more than any other garment, have a unique ability to do this. With a simple image and few words they convey a clear message about the personality and convictions of the wearer. Here’s a pick of some of the best.

No this is not a funky bracelet or other piece of jewellery, it is a trap. To catch and kill animals for their fur. Which seems to be a hip and sustainable thing to do according to the “Fur is Green” campaign by The Fur Council of Canada. It’s really not worth the rebuttal, but I just can’t help but comment on their anything but transparent campaign.

This month Quiksilver and Roxy are joining forces to promote the message No Water Sucks, a Europe-wide campaign aimed at protecting our water resources. On both the Quicksilver and Roxy website internet-users are invited to post their pictures illus¬trating ‘a lack of water.’ Th winning picture will be the one that garners the most votes from other internet-users in a one-click voting system. The winner will receive two cheques of €1000 each, one of which will be fully donated to one of the three charities the winner will have selected. For every photo posted on the websites, Quiksilver and Roxy pledge to replant a tree.

The third edition of the Green Fashion Switzerland took place on the 12th of February during the Natur Gala at the Music Theater Basel. I made my way to the event despite the rain and the freezing weather but it was definitely worth it! A lot has changed since the first Green Fashion Switzerland back in 2008. I remember it quite well because it was the first eco fashion fair I ever attended during my research on ethical fashion in Switzerland. It was a great platform (still is!) to get an initial insight into the green fashion movement and learn that so much is being done in Switzerland. However the old location was a bit small and crowded, and although the fashion show was really nice, I thought the glamour factor was missing.

These days, a heated debate on fish leather is taking place on our social networking group on LinkedIn. Although we have written about fish leather before, we feel it is good to stick our nose in this business again.

Salmon is probably the best known fish that is used for making leather. Other species include tilapia, Nile perch, carp and sea bass, among others. The different fish species are identifiable by their shape and the size of the scale pockets. Salmon has for example very small scale pocket patterns. Fish leather is as strong as any other. It is made in a variety of finishes, most popular of which are ruffled and glazed suede. The leather is drum dyed in a rainbow spectrum of colors which allows designers a rich choice to work with.

Last week the Financial Times published an article written by its fashion editor Vanessa Friedman on what sustainable fashion actually means. In the article, Friedman takes a critical stance towards the fuzziness that surrounds the concept of sustainable fashion. I would like to bring in a few counter-arguments to encourage people to keep on supporting this paradigm shift in the business of fashion.

Last week, during Germany’s Fashion week, an article on GMO in organic cotton in the German Financial Times has caused enormous controversy. The article, printed under the banner headline of Label Scandal, claims that German retailers sold India sourced certified organic textiles “knowing that there were traces of GMO cotton in them.” A wide number of retailers and NGOs have cried foul, alleging that they have been misquoted and that the assertions in the article are unfounded, exaggerated or unsubstantiated. Organic Exchange has immediately distributed a press release giving explanations for the case of GMO in organic cotton.

When you walk through a shopping street in your hometown, how do you know which brands are greener than others? Surf to Rank a Brand to see how transparent, green and fair they are. High-end designer brands such as Hugo Boss, Gucci and Prada are lagging behind. Large, more medium range retailers show a more positive trend and Hennes & Mauritz and Zara are leading here. Among the top ranked brands are Marks & Spencer, Puma and Timberland.

A good trade show can show industry decision makers, designers and visionaries what’s new—and next up—in the world of sustainable design. That’s why we’ve rounded up some can’t-be-missed trade shows and exhibitions around the globe that are going on now through March of 2010.

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Last week, TransFair USA, the third-party certifier of Fair Trade CertifiedTM products in the United States, announced that it is extending the “Fair Trade lifestyle” into cotton clothing, bed and bath products. The first Fair Trade Certified apparel and home goods products are expected to hit U.S. retail shelves in spring 2010. To ensure the highest impact program for Fair Trade Certified garments, TransFair USA is now seeking public comment on its new draft factory standard. The pilot standard is published on TransFair USA’s web site beginning November 16 for a 45-day public review and comment period.

As Primark’s new London store opened yesterday, anti-poverty campaigners hung out the retailer’s “dirty washing” in public with a clothes line that cited workers making its clothes for as little as 7p an hour. It’s important to note that the organizers did not urge shoppers to boycott Primark - as this may cost jobs - but to join the biggest-ever call for the British government to stop this abuse.

Celebrities have always been on the cutting edge of what’s new and fashion forward, particularly when it comes to going green. Back in the day, hip New York designs from Doucette Duvall developed a following with Sadie Frost, Rihanna and in the Sex and the City movie; and as of late, more and more celebrities have been launching their own sustainable fashion lines.

Television star Jo Wood today put her best foot forward by joining Britons who have posed for photographs to support the biggest-ever call for British government action to stop fashion retailers exploiting overseas workers.

Producing leather—whether by chrome/chemical tanning or vegetable tanning—comes with a host of problems. It heavily contributes to global warming, land devastation, environmental pollution, the depletion of valuable natural resources, and water-supply contamination, not to mention the spread of disease and the abuse of billions of animals.

Each year, October reminds us of the astounding number of women who have been impacted by breast cancer. Whether you have been treated, or had someone close to you undergo the battle, breast cancer month enables us all to actively contribute to awareness, research and prevention campaigns with everything we do: particularly in the eco fashion realm.

The Centre for Sustainable Fashion—part of London College of Fashion—along with funding from Defra and the Indian Government launched Shared Talent India in 2009. The project, which worked to recruit the best UK and Indian design talent to showcase sustainable Indian textiles, culminated in design concepts, a promotional film and a photography exhibition which were showcased at the the Monsoon Stand at this year’s Estethica at London Fashion Week and are making their way to Indian Fashion Week in October.

This autumn (from 18 September to 21 November) Iniva presents a triple bill of exhibits concerned with the garment industry at Rivington Place near Old Street in London.

Indian artist NS Harsha’s installation Nations, will be showing for the first time in Europe. 192 treadle sewing machines are overlaid with calico painted flags and connected by a web of threads. The artist’s witty take on globalisation, market forces and labour outsourcing reflects his sensitivity to humanitarian issues. He combines details of cultural traditions in India with subjects in the news to reflect the shifting world.

Where would the ecofasionista be without inspiring new brands? Where would designers be without their customers? And how clear are the borders nowadays between people buying eco fashion and people working in the industry? To promote the dialogue between these different actors, we at Eco Fashion World have developed strategic partnerships with several other organizations. From today onwards you´ll find three new modules on this website that can help you to share information and inspiration with the ever-growing group of eco fashion pioneers.

Ethical Fashion Forum is continuing its Spotlight on Sourcing seminar series with a focus on Latin America and Africa. Both seminars will be followed by a practical marketplace where you can put your new knowledge to the test!

Spotlight on Brazil & Latin America Seminar – July 21st