|LFW ESTETHICA RECAP: CLOTHING|
|Written by Ishwari Thopte - Thursday, 14 October 2010|
This season saw a number of new designers ESTETHICA, the eco-fashion initiative at London Fashion Week. Many of the designers took inspiration from nature, history and art, with a number of them collaborating with high street retailers to produce special edition collections. Other inspirations include strings and geometric shapes in the beautiful feminine and ultra clean silhouettes of EMESHA, a young but fast growing sustainable brand. Her covetable AW10 collection combines strong masculine and ultra feminine elements, representing the ever changing emotions of a woman - with inspiration coming from the emotional extremes of love and hate, happiness and sadness, soft and rough. These feelings are reflected in the mix of shapes, colours and fabrics, combining draping with cutting edge tailoring, to all blend into a visually balanced collection.
GOODONEis another brand to look out for. Their innovative, body-conscious and playful garments which are made from hand-picked recycled fabrics are a spring/summer must have for 2011. For its second season at LFW, they combine twisted shapes and gathered panels with body-con silhouettes, using high-quality lightweight knitwear and jersey fabrics in a variety of exciting colour combinations. The playful collection includes bodies with twisted straps made from recycled tees, slouchy jumper dresses from knitwear, panelled skirts with twisted waistband, high-wasted shorts, wooden-buckled belt dresses, baggy cropped tops and more, making beautiful use of block colour combinations – corals, pinks, greys, blues and greens with a subtle hint of black and white.
For her first season at ESTETHICA, Scandinavian designer CAMILLA WELLTON presents a strong and powerful collection inspired by the two elements: Air and Earth. Her collection is discreetly dramatic yet simple and elegant, with hints of the mysterious. The Flower Queen Jacket from her latest collection is definitely on my wish list for this winter!
Sportswear seems to be another popular theme this season. One of the founders of ESTETHICA is the highly acclaimed FROM SOMEWHERE label whose latest collection for Spring/Summer 2011 showcases some cutting edge sportswear reconstructed from Speedo’s old collections. The range consists of very short skirts, silks and high tech fabrics with interesting cuts and innovative patterns. The brand has recently collaborated with Tesco to come up with a fast selling up-cycled collection which was a huge hit with the online TESCO customers
Drawing inspiration from the northern lights is the Scottish designer HENRIETTA LUDGATE , whose latest collection uses bright, vivid colours of the ‘Aurora Borealis’ - the spectacular natural light phenomenon that is often seen in the northern regions of Scotland, swimming under the moonlight. Structural, strong shapes with minimalist lines in luxurious British fabrics are her signature style. This expertly crafted quilted dress coat pairs up very well with GOODONE’S two toned leggings.
Other interesting labels new to ESTETHICA this season included PARTIMI , the young British label by Eleanor Dorrien-Smith. Her SS 2011 collection is an eclectic mix of geometric graphics and some lovely textural prints. The new collection has been designed in homage to costumes that the designer’s grandmother collected from a sale of Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes costumes at Sotheby’s in 1969.
Last but not least, I would like to specially mention three of my most favourite brands from this season’s ESTETHICA:
US born ethical fashion label PROPHETIK , currently in its third season in the UK, showed their SS2011 collection titled ‘Midnight Garden’ which happens to be the perfect example of eco-couture. Inspired by Botticelli’s Venus, the collection provokes mystery and innocence with beautiful flowing Southern ball gown trimmed with beaded leather ropes and delicate lace, exquisitely tailored jackets and waistcoats decorated with antique buttons, pin-tucked tea dresses, hooded tunics and long-hemmed bloomers. My favourite piece is this beautiful peace silk gown, draped beautifully and reminiscent of the Italian renaissance.
British eco-label MINNA , whose ultra feminine vintage inspired dresses and tops made from silk and lace take you back into French romanticism. Her new collection is inspired by weddings, chiffon, Alice in Wonderland and hot summer nights in France. This collection is the ultimate presentation of day-to-night pieces such as the long organic Georgette dress that easily doubles up as an evening dress. The colour palette features heavy black tones and hand-dyed shades of grey. The other collection highlights are hemp/silk dresses with detachable necklace details; organic wool dresses incorporating feminine and unexpected lace detailing and lighter than air silk and lace mini dresses. The collection also has leather off-cuts that are shown in small detailing such as a belt and sleeves with bird leather and silk necklaces embellished with antique watch parts.
IVANA BASILOTTA , currently showcasing her second season at LFW, believes in making a career of living happily ever after and her peace silk collection encouragingly embodies her philosophy. Made up of some wonderful drapes and an interesting colour palette, each of these pieces is a wonderful eveningwear option.
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